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Modern Winemaking: Q&A with Jeff Owens

We sat down with Jeff Owens, winemaker at Odette Estate, to discuss the impact changing technology and climate change has on the winemaking process.

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Unusual Pairings: Steak Béarnaise + Frites

You were probably saving your favorite Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon for your next steak dinner, and we don't blame you; but, what if you didn't? What if you enjoyed a bottle of Odette Reserve Chardonnay with your Rib Eye? We know! Chardonnay is for Alaskan halibut, poached lobster, or grilled pork chops. But, we have another idea. In this case, it is going to be all about the sauce. Béarnaise, the piquant child of Hollandaise, when done right, it makes ordinary food spectacular and great food memorable. The wine and the sauce each share a similar purity and elegance. A creamy, rich texture on a foundation of vivid acidity is the framework for this extravagant pairing.

Recommended Pairing

2018 Odette Reserve Chardonnay

Follow along with Events Pro & Home Chef Adam Ryan as he prepares Steak Béarnaise + Frites.

ingredients | serves 2

for the rib eye

2 each, 20-30 ounce Rib Eye Steaks (bone in)
2 each, garlic cloves (unpeeled)
2 each, fresh thyme sprigs
1 tbsp, canola oil
1 tbsp, unsalted butter (softened) coarse sea salt
cracked black pepper

for the frites

2 each, russet potatoes
3 quarts, peanut oil or other preferred frying oil
3 sprigs, Italian parsley (chopped) coarse sea salt

for the béarnaise

14 ounces, unsalted butter (cut into 1⁄2" cubes) plus a little extra for sautéing shallots
2 each, shallots (finely diced)
12 leaves, fresh tarragon leaves (chiffonade), plus a couple leaves to add at the end 1⁄2 cup, white vinegar
6 each, egg yolks
1 tsp, cracked black pepper
coarse sea salt
a glass of cold water

Directions

preparing the frites

(part 1)

1. Wash and cut potatoes into 1⁄4" x 1⁄4" uniform sticks.

2. Rinse the cut potatoes in cold water to remove starch. Cover with fresh cold water and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, or up to 2 days.

preparing the béarnaise

(part 1)

1. In a small saucepan, melt butter to a liquid state on the lowest possible temperature. This should be done very slowly.

2. As the white, foamy milk solids rise to the top, skim off and discard.

3. Ladle the butterfat (bright-yellow liquid) into a separate container and set aside.

4. In a medium saucepan, melt enough butter to coat the shallots.

5. Sweat the shallots.

6. Stir until coated, and cover for 5 minutes. Remove the lid, stir, and cover for another 5 minutes. Repeat until shallots are soft and translucent, not brown.

7. Add vinegar, tarragon, and black pepper, and bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce to one third, approximately 5 minutes.

8. Allow the vinegar reduction to cool completely. Transfer to a stainless steel bowl and refrigerate.

preparing the frites

(part 2)

1. Drain, rinse, and pat potatoes dry.

2. Fill the deep fryer, or frying pot, with frying oil. Only fill to the fill line. Do not overfill or cover because hot oil bubbles as potatoes cook.

3. Heat oil to 300°F.

4. Working in batches, fill the fryer basket about 1/3 full of cut potatoes and fry for 6 minutes, or until fries are limp and very light brown. Drain basket and spread fries in a single layer on paper towels to absorb excess oil.

5. Let fries rest and dry at room temperature for at least 10 minutes, or as long as an hour.

preparing the steak

(part 1)

1. Remove the steak from the refrigerator 20-30 minutes before cooking.

2. Preheat oven to 475°F.

preparing the béarnaise

(part 2) – while the steak comes to room temperature and the frites dry

1. In a small saucepan, bring 1-2 inches of water to a boil.

2. Stage your glass of cold water within reach of the stovetop.

3. Add egg yolks to cold vinegar reduction in a stainless steel bowl or bain marie.

4. Turn the heat under the boiling water to the lowest setting, and put the stainless steel bowl on top of the sauce pan. If using a bain marie, put it in the saucepan with the hot water.

5. Making figure eights, continue to whisk the egg yolks until they thicken, approximately 5-7 minutes. When done, the whisk should leave a trace behind when it passes through the sauce.

6. If the sauce becomes so thick that the whisk exposes the bottom of the pan, add a light splash of cold water with a flick or two of your fingers.

7. Add salt and stir in.

8. In a long thread-like stream, pour in butterfat while gently whisking. Continue whisking until the sauce is thoroughly smooth.

9. Strain the sauce through a sieve into another (clean) saucepan. The bearnaise should be warm, but no longer really cooking. Toss

   in the reserved tarragon leaves and a pinch of pepper. Cover with plastic wrap to prevent a skin from forming and keep in a warm place until ready to serve.

preparing the steak

(part 2)

1. Over medium-high heat, preheat a cast-iron pan. You will want the pan very hot.

2. Rub the steak generously with coarse sea salt and coarse ground pepper.

3. Add canola oil and wait until oil just starts to smoke.

4. Gently add steak to the pan and sear for 1-2 minutes until a nice crust forms.

5. Turn steak over and baste with oil in the pan.

6. Add butter, thyme and garlic cloves.

7. Move the pan to the oven and check temperature in 2 minutes. The best way to check the temperature of a steak is using your hands.

   On one hand, with your fingers extended, tuck your thumb in. Press the muscle on the back of your hand at the base of the thumb. That is medium.
   Now extend the thumb and press the muscle on the back of the hand at the base of the thumb. That is medium-rare.

8. Remove the steak from the pan and let rest on your cutting board for 5 minutes.

preparing the frites

(part 3) – while the steak rests

1. Heat oil to 375°F.

2. Working in batches, return fries to the basket and fry for 2-3 minutes, or until crispy and dark gold brown. Drain basket and place fries on paper towels to absorb excess oil. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt.

plating

1. Slice steak against the grain at an angle and fan on plate or leave whole and place off-center on the plate.

2. Leaving enough room for a small ramekin, add a handful of frites to the plate and top with Italian parsley.

3. Ladle warm béarnaise sauce into a small ramekin and add to plate.

4. Enjoy with a cellar-temperature glass of Odette Reserve Chardonnay.

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Source: https://www.plumpjack.com/blog-content/tag/jeff+owens

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